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文/Kelland （Kelland：美国西雅图人，曾在Marc Jacobs从事时尚咨询五年，现为第五大道资深时尚咨询顾问）
在融合着钢琴、手风琴和古典琵琶的音乐声中，EACHWAY的秀台宛如回到某个电影里的场景：一个女孩在家翻找她妈妈的旧衣服，她会把妈妈那些经典样式的纪梵希、伊夫圣罗兰，真皮夹克和珠饰配搭在一起，以把自己装扮成一个公主。也就是说，EACHWAY秀台上展示的设计，其实在做这样一个努力：把一些老的经典时尚元素配搭在一起，期望展现一个完美的现代风格的新时尚，然而，EACHWAY今晚展示的设计却没能把这些充满浪漫主义精神的经典场面重现。那些老样式的设计，看起来更像一个对色彩完全失去敏感度的老奶奶把一些东西拼凑在一起，而不是一直可以永恒流传的复古时尚。灰、黑、白为基准色调，但经常会突兀地出现橙色的蝴蝶结之类的点缀，否则的话会是不错的设计。有一些服装有不错的肩部流苏设计和建筑感的衣领线条，从前面看起来相当不错，但一转过身那些夸张的蕾丝边，位置不当的蝴蝶结和错误的鞋子配搭，把整个设计全盘毁掉。
带绉饰的长裙配搭浅口轻便鞋和手包以及你的小侄女才可能喜欢的蕾丝手套——恐怕连蕾哈娜都不会如此搭配，唯一一件颇有风格的配饰是搭配在一件灰色丝质上衣上的圆形项链。如果你要买该系列的服饰，高腰褶皱裙或者宽腿绉饰裤应该是不错的选择，他们在设计和剪裁上都展现了相当水准。
整个EACHWAY春夏系列不能说完全是个败笔，但我认为它们缺乏它的目标顾客所需要的精致与含蓄。不过，我日后会观察这个品牌的设计。应该说，他们在细节的处理上还是有功底的，我相信一个能把这些复杂细节糅合在一起的人，假以时日能从中精炼出风格独具的设计单品。
Eachway, November 4, 2009
The hip background music, a fusion of techno, accordion, piano and classical guitar, set the stage for a scene in a movie where a girl goes rummaging through her mom's vintage clothes. She would try on old Givenchy, Yves Saint Laurant, leather jackets and costume jewelery fit for a princess, making a perfect modern ensemble out of old classics. However, the pieces shown tonight at Eachway failed to capture that romantic fashion scene. While full of old looks, the designs appeared to be inspired by a color blind grandma more than a timeless piece of vintage. Grey, white and black was the palette, but some orange bows were thrown on the back of what otherwise would have been a nice dress. A few pieces had beautiful draped shoulders and structured collar lines, from the front they looked like winners, but once the model turned the stage the look was was ruined with gaudy lace, misplaced ribbons, and shoes that were all wrong. Pumps with frilly dresses, clutches your niece would use and lace gloves Rihanna wouldn't touch, the only accessory that made a statement was the beautiful bulb necklace adorning a silk grey top. If you have to buy a piece from the collection stick to the high waisted pleated skirt or the wide leg pleated trousers, good basics that were well tailored. The collection wasn't a total loss, but there lacked a sense of sophistication that I would expect their target audience to need. That said, I would watch out for this line in the future. Although misplaced, the details were well executed and I trust anyone who can put together that complicated of a soundtrack is sure to be able to pull out some beautiful pieces with time.
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王晓易_NE0011
